The shopping bags are the first sign. They come through the cemetery gate while it is still stone and wet leaves, and inside them are white lanterns.
Inside them are white grave lanterns. One flame becomes ten. By dark, hundreds of candles have redrawn the cemetery.
This is pyhäinpäivä: Finland’s movable Saturday for remembering the dead, observed most visibly outdoors after sunset.

The brightest candles are for people buried elsewhere
The wall of light above is not a family grave. It is a shared memorial for people whose graves are somewhere else.
The names vary by cemetery. Look for muualle haudattujen muistomerkki, “memorial for those buried elsewhere”, or menneiden sukupolvien muistomerkki, “memorial for past generations”, which is what most Helsinki cemeteries call theirs. At Hietaniemi it is a flight of steps, signed Muualle haudattujen portaat, in block 20 of the new area. That is where you put a candle for somebody buried in another Finnish town, another country or at a grave you cannot reach. No name needs to be written on it.
These shared memorials can become the brightest point in the cemetery. Helsinki cemetery workers report that candles have increased at shared memorials; one parish spokesperson suggested that people moving farther from family graves may help explain why.12
The Church of Finland explicitly invites people to walk through the candlelight without tending a grave. Keep to the paths, give families space and do not photograph mourners at close range. You do not have to carry a candle.
The whole evening happens in four quiet moves
There is no ceremony at the gate. People arrive alone, in couples and in family groups. Nobody organises any of it: no start time, no list, nobody in charge - the same unsupervised shape as talkoot, with the work taken out. In early November the sun is down before five, so the graves can be glowing by late afternoon - the front edge of the dark season, months before the north loses its sunrise.34
-
1The bags arriveInside are covered hautakynttilät, grave candles made to burn outdoors. People also carry matches or a lighter. Helsinki's 2026 instructions recommend a torch and warm clothes.
-
2Families find their plotsLarge cemeteries are divided into numbered sections. Plot details and online grave searches matter once the paths go dark.
-
3The first flames spreadA candle may sit on the stone, on the earth in front of it or inside a permanent grave lantern. There is no required prayer or phrase.
-
4The paths fillSome visitors stay by one grave. Others walk through the cemetery. In 2023, Hietaniemi and Malmi in Helsinki counted about 7,000 visitors between them.

The candle sea is younger than it looks
Candles appeared on Finnish graves before the 1940s, but the mass custom spread during and after World War II. It took hold first at soldiers’ graves, then moved to the graves of family members and other loved ones across Finland.5
The war explains why a scene that looks ancient became nationwide within living memory. The Christmas Eve version is older, and still the bigger one: the first documented grave candle in Finland was lit at Helsinki’s Vanha hautausmaa on Christmas Eve 1921, and Christmas Eve remains the more common of the two evenings to take a candle out.

The date moves every year
Finland’s pyhäinpäivä combines two observances that remain separate in some Christian traditions: All Saints’ Day on 1 November and All Souls’ Day on 2 November. Since 1955, the Finnish holiday has been observed on the Saturday between 31 October and 6 November.2
The Church Act names pyhäinpäivä as a church holiday.6 The Saturday rule means the number on the calendar changes each year. In 2026 it is 31 October.
Halloween falls on the same night in 2026. That is a calendar overlap, not another name for the same event: costume parties and the cemetery tradition are separate.
Ten words hidden in the candlelight
| Finnish | English | Where you meet it |
|---|---|---|
| Finnishpyhäinpäivä | EnglishAll Saints’ Day | Where you meet itcalendars and church notices |
| Finnishhautausmaa | Englishcemetery | Where you meet itmaps and gates |
| Finnishhauta | Englishgrave | Where you meet itplot searches and signs |
| Finnishhautakynttilä | Englishgrave candle | Where you meet itshops and visitor instructions |
| Finnishmuistokynttilä | Englishmemorial candle | Where you meet itchurch services and notices |
| Finnishvainaja | Englishdeceased person | Where you meet itformal church and funeral language |
| Finnishedesmennyt | Englishsomeone who has died | Where you meet ita gentler word in speech and notices |
| Finnishmuistolehto | Englishmemorial grove | Where you meet itcemetery maps, especially for ashes |
| Finnishmuualle haudatut | Englishthose buried elsewhere | Where you meet itthe shared memorial |
| Finnishkynttiläkirkko | Englishcandle service | Where you meet itparish programmes |
The name pyhäinpäivä contains a small fossil of old Finnish. Pyhäin is a plural genitive of pyhä, “saint” or “holy person”. Modern Finnish would more often use pyhien, but the rarer -in ending survives inside established compounds.7
In many candle services, the names of parish members who died during the previous year are read aloud. One candle is lit for each person, and their families may receive a personal invitation.2

Then somebody has to collect 5,000 lanterns
At Lahti’s Levon cemetery, workers collected about 5,000 candles after the 2024 holiday. A few years earlier, the total had been about 10,000.1
Used lanterns leave wax, metal and plastic behind. Sorting rules vary by cemetery, so the bins on site are the ones to follow.
The Lahti count does not describe the whole country. Vantaa and Hämeenlinna have also reported declines, while Helsinki’s Malmi cemetery has seen more candles on graves and at shared memorials.1
If you go in 2026
Pyhäinpäivä on 31. lokakuuta. All Saints’ Day is on 31 October.
- Check the cemetery’s opening hours and grave search before leaving.
- Bring a covered grave candle, matches or a lighter, a torch and warm clothes.
- Arrive before sunset if you need to find a particular grave; go after dark for the full candlelight.
- Follow the cemetery’s signs and leave used lanterns in the marked sorting bins.
You do not need a Finnish family grave or any religious belief to take part. A quiet walk is enough. Outside Finland, the date is still the thing to know: it is when the Finnish half of a family is standing in a cemetery and not answering the phone. If the person you miss is buried far away, one candle at the muualle haudattujen muistomerkki gives that absence a place.
Footnotes
-
Lahden suurimman hautausmaan kynttilämeri kutistui - Yle, 5 November 2025, on candle counts and the different trends in Lahti and Helsinki ↩
-
Pyhäinpäivä - Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland, on the date, the two combined feasts and cemetery visits ↩
-
Muistojen puutarhat 2026 - Helsinki Parish Union, with the 31 October programme and visitor instructions ↩
-
Tuhannet kynttilät syttyivät pyhäinpäivänä - Helsinki Cathedral Parish, reporting the 2023 visitor count ↩
-
Pyhäinpäivänä muistetaan kuolleita rakkaita - Church Information Centre, on the spread of grave candles from soldiers’ graves in the 1940s ↩
-
Kirkkolaki 652/2023, chapter 1 section 6 - Finlex, listing Finland’s church holidays ↩
-
Pyhäinpäivä vanhainkodissa - Institute for the Languages of Finland, on the rare plural genitive in the name ↩










